The blade (also called frame or wood) defines the character of your bat: how fast it is, how much feel you get and how forgiving it is when a shot is not quite perfect.
Playing class: from defensive to offensive
Manufacturers grade blades by speed. The further to the right, the faster the blade and the more technique it demands.
| Class | Character | For whom |
|---|---|---|
| DEF | Slow, lots of control | Defenders who play far from the table and chop a lot |
| ALL- / ALL | Calm, lots of feel | Beginners and players building their technique |
| ALL+ | Allround with a bit more speed | Club players with a safe topspin |
| OFF- | Lightly offensive | Attackers who still want lots of control |
| OFF | Fast | Advanced attackers |
| OFF+ | Very fast | Experienced attackers with good technique |
Construction: wood or carbon
5-ply wood
Flexible, lots of feel and a long dwell time. Ideal for learning technique and for allround play.
7-ply wood
Stiffer and faster than 5-ply, but still with the feel of wood. For club players who want to apply more pressure.
Carbon / composite
Layers of carbon or other fibres make the blade faster and give a larger sweet spot. Less feel on short balls. For advanced attackers.
View carbon blades →Which handle?
| Handle | Shape | Why choose it |
|---|---|---|
| FL (flared / concave) | Wider at the end | The most popular handle: it does not slip out of your hand on hard shots. |
| ST (straight) | Straight | Easy to turn between forehand and backhand. Popular with defenders and backhand players. |
| AN (anatomic) | Bulge in the middle | Fills the hand. A matter of feel. |
Weight
Most blades weigh between 80 and 95 grams, plus two rubbers. A lighter blade swings faster and more easily; a heavier blade gives more power but asks more of your arm.
Still not sure?
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